Original Article

DEVELOPMENT AND EVALUATION OF A COSMETIC W/O EMULSION SYSTEM CONTAINING AMODEL PLANT EXTRACT

  • Gülay Büyükköroglu
  • Yasemin Yazan

Received Date: 25.03.2004 Accepted Date: 29.04.2004 Turk J Pharm Sci 2004;1(1):31-46

Abstract In this study, a model plant material, Centaurium erythraea, in a w/o type emulsion system was investigated regarding its physicopharmaceutical and cosmetic evaluation. W/O emulsion system without the incorporation of active ingredient was formulated prior to formulations containing  2% and 4% extracts obtained from the leaves of Centaurium erythraea. The emulsions were investigated under the light microscope, Droplet distributions were determined using laser diffraction equipment. Centrifugation, microbiological and thermal stress tests and rheological analyses were also performed on the formulations. The most stable formulations selected according to the tests mentioned above were used for dermatological evaluation on 10 volunteers. Statistical test (SPSS) was used to evaluate anyvariation between the cosmetic efficacy of the formulations and weeks. The three emulsion systems formulated showed appropriate consistency, homogeneity and physicopharmaceutical properties for application to the skin. New w/o emulsion systems were developed for a plant extract of cosmetic value.The systems were found to be stable and physicopharmaceutically acceptable. All three prepararions formulated in this study have shown variation regarding skin moisture, skin pH and sebum content. Variation was not found for the skin elasticity between the formulations. Özet Bu çalismada, bitkisel bir madde olan Centaurium erythraea`nin s/y tipi emülsiyon sistemi içindeki fizikokimyasal ve kozmetik degerlendirmesi yapilmistir. Centaurium erythraea`nin yapraklarindan elde edilen %2 ve 4%`lük ekstreleri içeren formülasyonlardan önce etkin madde içermeyen s/y emülsiyon sistem formüle eilmistir. Emülsiyonlar isik mikroskobunda incelenmistir. Damlacik dagilimlari lazer kirinim cihazi ile belirlenmistir. Formülasyonlarda, santrifüjleme, mikrobiyolojik ve hizlandirilmis termal testler ve reolojik analiz de gerçeklestirilmistir. Bahsedilen testlere göre en kararli oldugu saptanan formülasyonlar dermatolojik degerlendirme için 10 gönüllüde kullanilmistir. Formülasyonlar ve haftalar arasinda kozmetik etkinlik açisindan farklilik olup olmadigi istatistiksel (SPSS) olarak degerlendirilmistir. Formülasyonu gerçeklestirilen her üç emülsiyon sistemi de cide uygulanacak uygun kivam, tekdüzelik ve fizikofarmasötik özelliklere sahiptir. Kozmetik degeri olan bir bitki için yeni s/y emülsiyon sistemi gelistirilmistir. Sistemlerin kararli ve fizikofarmasötik olarak kabul edilebilir olduklari bulunmustur. Bu çalisma kapsaminda formülasyonu yapilan preparatlarin tümü, cilt nemi, pH`si ve sebum içerigine etkisi yönünden birbirlerinden farklilik göstermistir. tüm formülasyonlarin uygulanmasi sonucu elde edilen cit esnekligi degerleri arasinda farklilik saptanmamistir.

Keywords: W/O emulsion, Formulation, Physicopharmaceutical evaluation, Cosmetic efficacy